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Authors: Louisa Shafia

The New Persian Kitchen (27 page)

BOOK: The New Persian Kitchen
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Date-and-Walnut-Filled Cookies

date-and-walnut-filled cookies
koloocheh
These butter cookies are unmistakably Middle Eastern: Persian Jews make them at
Purim, while Arabic Christians eat a similar cookie at Easter, as do Muslims during various
Eid celebrations. The key to getting the cookies to keep their shape is to refrigerate them until firm after filling and shaping. The combination of gluten-free flours here produces a nutty taste and a light texture, but you can use an equivalent amount of white flour.
makes about 18 cookies
DOUGH
1 cup unsalted butter or refined coconut oil, at room temperature
⅓ cup plus ½ cup organic cane sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 egg
¾ cup fava bean flour
¾ cup coconut flour
½ cup tapioca flour
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
2 teaspoons baking powder
FILLING
½ cup finely chopped walnuts
½ cup Medjool dates, pitted and chopped
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 tablespoons honey
Pinch of sea salt
To make the dough, in an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla and egg and mix until just combined. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flours, salt, cardamom, and baking powder. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients in two batches, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Turn the dough onto a piece of plastic wrap and press it into a disk. Wrap and chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours, until firm but still flexible.
To make the filling, combine ¼ cup of the walnuts with the dates, cinnamon, orange juice, honey, and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer uncovered, stirring often, for 5 to 7 minutes, until the mixture forms a thick paste. Transfer to a plate and let cool to room temperature.
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
To make each cookie, wet your hands and break off a lemon-size piece of the dough. Flatten the dough, or make a well in it using your thumb. Place ½ teaspoon of the filling in the middle, then pinch the dough closed and roll it into a ball. Flatten the dough gently between your palms to form a disk 1 inch thick, and place it on the lined baking sheet. Press a pinch of the remaining ¼ cup walnuts into the center of the cookie. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
Refrigerate the cookies for 45 minutes, until firm. While the cookies chill, preheat the oven to 350°F.
Bake the cookies for 25 minutes, until the undersides are golden. Transfer to a cooling rack and let cool completely. In a clean spice grinder, grind the remaining ½ cup sugar into a fine powder. Dust the cookies with the powdered sugar and serve. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
amaranth rice
pudding with rose water
sholeh zard
This sweet grain pudding is delicately spiced with a combination of saffron, cinnamon, and rose water. Chewy, nutty amaranth grains combined with the rice give it a surprising texture. Although basmati rice is usually soaked before cooking to get rid of the extra starch, there’s no need to soak it here because the starch helps to bind the pudding.
Sholeh zard
is usually served cold, so make it ahead of time, even the day before, to give it ample time to cool. Persian cooks use ground cinnamon to decorate the pudding’s surface with patterns, paisleys, and auspicious sayings, so get creative with stencils and designs and have fun with it.
serves 6
⅓ cup amaranth
⅓ cup white or brown basmati rice
6 cups water
¼ teaspoon sea salt
1 cup organic cane sugar
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon saffron,
ground and steeped
in 1 tablespoon hot water
1 tablespoon rose water
Ground cinnamon, for garnish
Crushed pistachios, for garnish
In a large, deep skillet, combine the amaranth, rice, water, and salt and bring to a boil; watch carefully because it can boil over easily. Lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes, until the grains are very soft.
Uncover the skillet and add the sugar, cardamom, and butter. Simmer, uncovered, for about 30 minutes, until most of the water is cooked out and the porridge is thick, stirring often. Add the saffron and rose water and cook for 3 more minutes.
Spoon the pudding into individual bowls or one large serving bowl and let cool to room temperature. Cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Shake cinnamon over the top, garnish with pistachios, and serve.

No-Bake Persimmon and Goat Cheese Cheesecake

no-bake persimmon and goat cheese cheesecake
Whenever I bring home persimmons, I always imagine that I’ll work them into an artful, sophisticated dish. But their coral color and honeysuckle flavor are so alluring that as soon as they ripen, I invariably tear into one raw, scooping out the flesh in sheer, uninhibited delight. Perhaps that’s why I’ve created a dessert that leaves the pure flavor of persimmons intact. This airy cheesecake requires no cooking, and the sauce is simply pureed persimmons. Make the cheesecake at least 4 hours before serving, or even the day before, so it’s firm and easy to slice. Try substituting ripe mangoes or peaches for the persimmons; because both of these fruits hold their shape, you can puree enough to go inside the cake and dice the rest to use as a topping.
makes one 10-inch cake
½ cup heavy cream
1½ cups pistachios, toasted
1 cup crushed graham crackers
¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons unrefined coconut oil, melted and cooled
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1½ teaspoons ground cardamom
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons organic cane sugar
Sea salt
5 very ripe hachiya persimmons
1 pound fresh goat cheese, at room temperature, crumbled
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
Lightly oil a 10-inch springform pan with coconut oil.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream into stiff peaks. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside in the refrigerator. Replace the mixer bowl without washing.
In a food processor, combine the pistachios and graham crackers with 3 tablespoons of the coconut oil, the cinnamon, the cardamom, and 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Add a pinch of salt and pulse until the mixture clumps easily. Transfer to the springform pan and spread evenly over the bottom. Press down with the bottom of a juice glass to pack it down evenly.
Scoop the flesh from the persimmons and puree in a blender until smooth. Set aside ½ cup of the puree, and store the rest in the refrigerator.
Combine the goat cheese, the remaining ¾ cup coconut oil, and the remaining 1 cup sugar in the mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat for 2 to 3 minutes, until smooth. Fold in the ½ cup persimmon puree, the lime juice, and a pinch of salt. Fold in the whipped cream. Pour the mixture into the springform pan and smooth the top. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, until firm.
To serve, remove the pan sides and cut the cheesecake into wedges. Garnish each serving with a generous spoonful of the persimmon puree. The cheesecake will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
nutty
chocolate bark with
cardamom and coffee
This festive chocolate confection is inspired by the combination of cardamom and coffee, as seen in the recipe for
Cardamom Coffee
. You can find dried mulberries at natural foods stores and at the Persian food suppliers listed in the
Resources
section. (
See photo
of cardamom pods and dried mulberries.)
makes about 20 pieces
2 cups semisweet chocolate chips, or 1 (16-ounce) bittersweet chocolate bar, broken into pieces
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
¼ cup dried mulberries
¼ cup dried tart cherries
¾ cup almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped
½ cup pistachios, toasted and coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons coffee beans, coarsely chopped
Pinch of coarse salt, such as fleur de sel, Maldon salt, or kosher salt
Grease a baking sheet and line it with parchment paper.
Melt the chocolate in a large stainless-steel bowl placed over (not touching) simmering water in a pot. Add the cardamom and stir to dissolve for a couple of minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in half of the mulberries, cherries, almonds, and pistachios.
BOOK: The New Persian Kitchen
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