Authors: Andrew Whitley
Bread Matters (43 page)
yeast fermentation, 90
testing loaves, 122—3
texture: problems, 137
proving dough, 118
reducing staling, 333
shaping and, 116
water and, 229-30
thermometers, 58, 65, 131
thiamine, 23
time and timing: baking, 128-35
and freshness, 28—9
home breadmaking, 54—5
sourdough, 200-4
see also
rising
tins, baking, 60, 116-17
toast, 336
tomatoes, sun-dried tomato and red onion bread, 214-17
tools and equipment, 57—65
toppings, 246—50
trans-fatty acids, 97, 281
transglutaminase, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 281-2, 297
trays, baking, 60
trenchers, 273, 278-80
Triticum
species, 79
troubleshooting
see
problem- solving
Tuscan harvest bread, 267—70
vegetable oil, 98
vegetables, trenchers, 278—80
vegetarians, 12, 17
Vienna bread, 26
Vin Santo,
schiacciata di uva,
267-70
vinegar, 11
vitamins, 22, 23, 24, 36
vitamin B group, 23, 24, 25, 27
vitamin E, 23, 24, 85
volume, 82
conversion table, 71
walnut oil, 98
walnuts, fruit and nut leaven bread, 189-90
‘washing’ sourdough starter, 205
water: chlorine in, 88—9
home breadmaking, 88—9, 229-30
in industrial bread, 8, 229
and kneading, 108-10, 111
measuring, 67
proving dough, 119
temperature, 68, 129, 131
watermills, 80-1
weight, conversion table, 69—72
West Indies, 157
wheat: changes to modern loaves, 19-20
Chorleywood Bread Process, 7
flour, 75-83
gluten, 299-300, 301
intolerance of, 4—5, 41—3
local wheat, 80-1
milling methods, 22—5
nutritional values, 20
and soil, 43-5
wheat flakes, toppings, 247
wheat germ oil, 24, 25
wheat leaven, 179-82
basic sequence, 200—4
Cromarty cob, 198-200
French country bread, 182—6
hop bread, 186-8
refreshing sponge, 214
storage, 206, 207-8
‘wheatmeal’ flour, 22, 76
white bread
see
industrial bread
white flour, 22-5, 76, 77
whole grain rye bread, 174—7
wholegrain flour, 77
wholemeal bread, 39
wholemeal flour, 22, 76, 77
wholemeal rye flour, 162
wholewheat flour, 77
‘wild’ yeasts, 25, 27, 89, 156
windmills, 80—1
wine: Charlotte Russe, 344-5
schiacciata di uva,
267—70
worktops, 59
wraps, gluten-free, 322
xanthum gum, 297
xylanase, 13
yeast, 89-93
baking, 120-1
Candida albicans,
5
changes to, 19, 25—7
Chorleywood Bread Process, 9
dissolving, 91-2, 104, 129
and dough temperature, 129
dried yeast, 91-2
extending fermentation time, 131-2
fermentation, 25-6
fresh yeast, 90
knocking back, 114
lactic acid bacteria and, 38, 39
laminated dough, 280-93
organic yeast, 92-3
preliminary yeasted doughs, 123-7
proving dough, 117
rising, 27, 38, 113
and salt, 95
scaling up recipes, 67—8
sourdough, 5, 155-6, 158
and sugar, 93—4
‘wild’ yeasts, 25, 27, 89, 156
yeast cakes, 235
yeasted pastries, 271—93
Zeldin, Theodore, 99
zinc: in bran, 39
milling methods and, 23, 24
preliminary yeasted doughs, 125
sourdough process, 39
This book would not have been possible without the help of many people, notably the many bakers in the UK, France and Russia from whom I have learned.
Louise Haines kindly asked me to write the book and showed a commitment beyond the call of editorial duty by attending two of my courses. My understanding of some of the science of nutrition and baking was enlarged by Margaret Rayman, John Lewis, Stan Cauvain, Christian Rémésy and Frédérique Batifoulier. Kirsten Fischer-Lindahl shared her enthusiasm for good bread and helped greatly by supplying and interpreting research material. Lynda Brown, Gill and Greg Evans and Victoria Fisher gave generous advice and Jane Middleton helped bring clarity to the text. Jeff Cottenden’s photographs and Julian Humphries’ design completed the picture. I am grateful to all of them.
Special thanks to Veronica Burke for her patient support and enthusiastic tasting of some of the work in progress.
First published in Great Britain in 2006 by Fourth Estate An imprint of HarperCollins
Publishers 77-85
Fulham Palace Road London W6 8JB
www.4thestate.co.uk
Copyright © Andrew Whitley 2006
Photographs by Jeff Cottenden
Illustrations by Richard Bravery
FIRST EDITION
The right of Andrew Whitley to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN-13 0-00-978-720374-1
ISBN-10 0-00-720374-8
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*
You may well have more starter than this. As with excess rye sour, you can either freeze the excess wheat starter, give some away, put it in the compost bin or use it to flavour another dough (at up to 10 per cent of the dough weight).
*
The remaining 180g or so of refreshed production leaven goes back into the pot and becomes the ‘old starter’, to be kept for another cycle of refreshment and breadmaking. For advice on looking after your starter, see ‘What do I do with my sourdough between baking sessions?’ on page 204.
*
Using this amount, there will be a little sponge left over. If you want to turn your sponge into a leaven, follow the instructions under Refreshing the sponge. Otherwise, include all the sponge in the dough.
Table of Contents
Chapter One What’s the Matter with Modern Bread?
Chapter Two Does It Really Matter What Bread We Eat?
Chapter Four The Essential Ingredients
Chapter Five Starting from Scratch
Chapter Six First Bread and Rolls
Chapter Seven Simple Sourdough
Chapter Eight Bread – A Meal In Itself
Chapter Nine of Crust and Crumb
Chapter Ten Sweet Breads and Celebrations
Chapter Twelve Gluten-Free Baking